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Sorry guys, wish this was a clearer pic. We're looking from the front of the amp, green board being the sub board for the pots. The opto-isolater, OP1 (it's an LED), is under the black cover. That's R45 to the NW of it. C24 is the blue electrolytic cap due west of it.
The yellow wire partly obscuring the C24 mark is the "Fritz" mod wire. You can see I eliminated R12, not wanting to EVER go back !
Anyway, the cheapo ceramic disk cap in between the opto-isolator and the electrolytic cap is the mod. I used an 0.01 uF @ 1KV ceramic disk cap. It's soldered to the north side of R45 and the south side of C24. Be careful not to overheat an electrolytic cap when soldering. If you do, it can short partially or completely and its tube will run hot.
You can get a pair of these caps at local Radio shack for about 3 bux. No need to go to the schmancy electronics supply store with the 10 buck shipping, just for this. We're just shunting off the ticking noise and not doing rocket science to the tone, here. The trick is to get an 0.01uf one. Any rating, 500 volts or bigger, is fine. For those interested, though, the appropriate Mouser Part number is 594-S103M47Z5UN63J7R .
Works great, and that's all there is to it !
Don't forget to make sure your caps are discharged before you start - see the original Fritz Mod, under this profile.
Please Note: Fritz_D_Cat, or any of his likenesses, are not responsible for any injury or damage because you messed with a perfectly good amp!