FDP Forum / Jazzbass annoying pots/ 14 messages in thread.

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pacobass



canada

Nov 9th, 2017 12:57 AM        

Anyone could help with this problem please?<br /> I have a road worn Jazz bass, plays and sounds great but the pots will work more like an on off switch then a normal 1 to 10 volume ( like on my '50 Mim P bass)<br /> <br /> There is almost no sound between 1 and 8 and all of a sudden it open pretty much to full volume!<br /> It seems to me most Jazz are like that???<br /> I really need the volume to go up evenly!<br /> Many thanks,<br /> P.



uncle stack-knob

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united kingdom

Nov 9th, 2017 03:39 AM        

It seems that from what you describe,the pots you have are of the linear type.<br /> For a Jazz Bass with the three controls,you should ideally have Audio taper pots and not linear.<br /> Pots are so inexpensive that changing them out is no big deal.If you take the bass to a RELIABLE tech/repairman,then they can do it for you,and could also check the taper of the existing pots before making the change.<br /> 250K Audio taper pots will get you where you need to be.<br /> Do note that it is a feature of many Jazz Basses that when you turn BOTH volumes fully up then you may detect a SLIGHT drop in volume,which disappears when you back either of the volumes off just a tad.Capacitors are a matter of taste,but .05mfd would put you in the original ballpark; .02mfd will give you a slightly more defined sound with perhaps a little more cut through,but ultimately somewhat less deeper bass when the tone is rolled right back.<br /> <br /> So,it seems you may have linear taper pots.<br /> If so fit Audio taper pots.<br /> A good make is C.T.S.<br /> <br /> Hope that helps,<br /> Stack-Knob.



uncle stack-knob

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united kingdom

Nov 9th, 2017 03:39 AM        

Double post...<br />



Te 52



Laws of Physics

strictly enforced
Nov 9th, 2017 05:04 PM        

I must respectfully disagree with usk. The characteristic of a linear pot is too much volume change from 0 to 5, and too little from 5 to 10, which is the opposite of what you describe.



pacobass



canada

Nov 10th, 2017 01:06 AM        

Many thanks Uncle S-K! That's what we call a clear explanation! I know that you're a good expert in '50 and '60 fender stuff but this might interest you.<br /> Serial # on my Road Worn Jazz is MZ 82------ that would make it very early for that model, the RW series started in 2009?<br /> <br /> Now a jazzbass model is nothing new even in the Mexico factory so there could be a bad connection in there?<br /> Now that I think of it, I got it second hand and the guy who had it before did a heavy distress job all over the body and it looks like a beaten up 1960's bass (result is pretty good though)<br /> Anyway, could be that the soldering was done badly when he put it back together...<br /> P.



uncle stack-knob

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united kingdom

Nov 11th, 2017 06:57 AM        

If you change the pots out for 250k Audio taper cts<br /> and wire them as per the Fender stock service diagram for a standard Jazz Bass then it should work ok.Apologies for suggesting that your pots are definitely linear.<br /> <br /> Te 52.. my apologies to both,my suggestion was misleading regards Linear taper.However, the pot characteristic may be at play.<br /> Tracks aren't what they were....<br /> <br /> As a thought,Te52,why do you think Fender wired the three control Jazz Bass with the signal from the pickup going to the centre (wiper) leg of the pots?<br /> <br /> Stack-Knob.



Lewis



USA

Who is E. Sandoval?
Nov 12th, 2017 04:10 PM        

To me, it sounds like it ain't wired correctly. Find a drawing for jazz bass wiring and compare your bass to the drawing.



pacobass



canada

Nov 12th, 2017 06:18 PM        

It could very well be badly wired because the bass was taken apart for a heavy road worn treatment...<br /> I will try to link some photos.<br /> P.



Bubbalou



USA

THE LOW END OF UPPER TEJAS
Nov 28th, 2017 05:47 AM        

I have found Fender pots used in the USA models and CTS Pots to be reliable



pacobass



canada

Dec 12th, 2017 06:07 AM        

I went to the store yesterday to try out a couple of different jazz bass and they ALL did the same thing then the road worn I have; if divided by 10 the volume of sound is=<br /> - at 0 no sound<br /> - between 1 and 8 moving the volume pot around you get a bit of sound but no difference in volume rolling the pot<br /> - go up to 9 and you get full volume all of a sudden.<br /> <br /> The 3 jazz bass ( MIA, MIM) I tried did exactly the same thing except the Squier natural wood, white blocks that had a pot that would gradually bring the sound up to full volume!<br /> <br /> I find this VERY ANNOYING and pretty useless on gigs where you want to have some room left if you need to ajust quickly on a live situation.<br /> <br /> The P bass at the store had an even volume that works great so does my own '57 P MIM <br /> <br />



Rod Trussbroken



Australia.

Cheers Gav.
Dec 15th, 2017 10:43 PM        

The volume control on the early Sting Ray Basses behaved in the same way as pacobass describes. Latter in the Pre-EB period Music Man changed the volume control from 25K Audio to linear tapper. That gave the volume control a more even and gradual increase throughout the entire rotation of the pot rather than right at the end. EB Music Man still uses the same Linear pot today. However the Sting Rays use an active preamp rather than passive circuitry.<br /> <br /> P.S. On the other hand, my 62 RI AM J Bass (passive) has Audio tapper pots which give gradual increase in volume throughout the entire rotation. Is it possible for Audio and Linear pots to display different characteristics depending on whether the electronics are active or passive? <br />



Peegoo

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Dec 16th, 2017 08:13 AM        

Go here [link below].<br /> <br /> Scroll down 2/3 of the way and click on the word 'Download' next to the entry for the Highway 1⢠Jazz Bass® (Upgrade 2005).<br /> <br /> It will pull down a PDF of the spec sheet for the Hwy 1 jazz bass, which is pretty much what the Road Worn series is--except with no wear marks.<br /> <br /> Compare the circuit in your bass with the diagram on page 2 and the component specs on page 3 and see if you spot any differences.



Peegoo

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Dec 16th, 2017 08:16 AM        

Doh!<br /> <br /> Try



Peegoo

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Dec 16th, 2017 08:19 AM        

Dang, can't get that link to work.<br /> <br /> Try this instead: go to Google and type <br /> <br /> Road Worn bass diagram<br /> <br /> Click on this link in the list that pops up:<br /> <br /> [PDF]ROAD WORN 60'S JAZZ BASS ® (013-1810-XXX) - fmicassets<br /> <br /> This is the PDF for the RW Jazz Bass.



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