FDP Forum / Which nut?/ 15 messages in thread.

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RDR

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Oct 22nd, 2017 12:39 PM        

Hi! I have a 2002 American Series strat with a maple fingerboard. I need to install a new nut. I'm gonna get a Tusq XL nut, but don't know whether to get a flat bottomed nut, or an arched one with the little foot, as shown at their website. Can anyone point me to the right one?



wrnchbndr

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New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Oct 22nd, 2017 12:54 PM        

I've always seen American made fenders having a curved bottom nut slot. I don't stay on top of this issue but my guess is that you have a radiused nut slot. The little center support is there to make the nut suitable for either a flat bottom or a radiused slot.



Peegoo

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Oct 22nd, 2017 02:39 PM        

Yep. That's a dual-design nut. If the slot has a flat bottom, shape it and glue it in.<br /> <br /> If the slot has a radiused bottom, carefully grind off that little foot in the middle and it will fit perfectly. A little sanding drum on a Dremel is ideal for a job like this. It's 10 seconds of work.



RDR

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Oct 22nd, 2017 03:55 PM        

Thanks guys. 10 seconds work is just about right for the lazy retired me.



ejm



usa

Oct 23rd, 2017 10:03 AM        

If you take a straight edge (a metal ruler, etc.) and set it in the nut slot you'll know right away if the slot is radiused or flat.<br /> <br /> YT has way more videos than you'll ever have time to watch on nut replacement. Search for "strat nut replacement" or something similar. Stewmac has one that's not too lengthy and pretty good.<br />



Mick Reid

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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 23rd, 2017 07:39 PM        

"Yep. That's a dual-design nut. If the slot has a flat bottom, shape it and glue it in."<br /> <br /> Peegoo, by "shape it" are you saying sand it flat, or just glue it in with the existing 3 points of contact?<br /> <br /> If the latter, that completely blows what I considered to be of the importance of "perfect coupling" for transference.<br /> <br /> I went absolutely nuts (no pun intended) to the mating of the nut slot and nut as near perfect as I could when I repaired & replaced the nut on my recent LP project.<br /> <br /> I 'm glad I did it cuz I learnt a lot from doing it, but maybe I didn't *need* to be so pedantic about it in the end.<br />



RDR

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Nov 20th, 2017 09:06 AM        

Well I ordered a Tusq XL nut. The original nut came out easily. I had to sand the sides to remove about .003 to fit in the slot. The string height was just a few thou too high, so I put sandpaper on the fretboard and sanded the radius bottom until it was right (removed the nub in the middle with Dremel sandjng drum). Didn't have any glue I wanted to use, so put some poly in the groove, hopefully it will stay put. Knocked off the sharp corners and it is done. About 15 minutes work and I didn't screw it up, yay!



littleuch

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Florida

Nov 20th, 2017 09:11 AM        

I put an Earvana nut on my parts Tele. Its a bit odd looking on what otherwise is a 66 replica, but I love it. I had one installed on an ES-333 and am sold as to their function of fixing my sharp G string issues.



Cal-Woody



USA/California

Why do I keep fixing things that work?
Nov 20th, 2017 10:39 AM        

I've been tempted to try the Earvana compensated nuts for a few of my guitars and have a question about them.<br /> Can you still adjust the slots with a file or are they just adjusted by altering the base of the nut?<br /> I have read a lot of testimonies as to their positive outcome with improved tuning and intonation, but have always wondered as to adjusting the height for proper relief. Some have adjustable nut slots for moving the slots and some are just a solid piece, which one did you get and do you have experience with the others I mentioned? <br /> Thank you in advance, Woody



littleuch

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Florida

Nov 20th, 2017 12:24 PM        

Cal, the Earvana nut I had on my ES-333 was a 2 piece unit professionally installed. The one on my Tele is one of the shelf types and I shaped the bottom/sides and slots of that one. If I recall correctly, I wasn't happy with the string spacing on the ES-333 so I replaced the top. It's held on with 3 small screws that allows for some intonation adjustment. The string slots can be (at least IMO) filed to accommodate the preferred string gauges.



ejm



usa

Nov 21st, 2017 08:24 AM        

littleuch: Regarding the shelf nut........<br /> <br /> Did you make your own totally from scratch?<br /> Or did you buy a nut that already had the shelf cut out, and all you needed to do was adjust the height and width?<br /> If you bought it "pre-shelfed", where did you get it?<br />



Peegoo

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Nov 21st, 2017 03:01 PM        

Mick, "shape the nut" meant sand it to the proper thickness and cut it to length and polish the ends before installing.<br /> <br /> Sorry for being unclear on that!



littleuch

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Florida

Pronounced "Klinkhammer"
Nov 21st, 2017 03:07 PM        

ejm, I bought the Earvana nut directly from Earvana or one of their distributors. <br /> <br />



Cal-Woody



USA/California

Why do I keep fixing things that work?
Nov 21st, 2017 05:14 PM        

Yes, the couple that I have seen were: Shelf nut, which was similar to a standard nut on an Les Paul or acoustic guitar with extended top portions to compensate for the first few frets and of course, the overall intonation of the scale length of your neck. The other one had adjustable top pieces that were mostly used on Strat or Tele style guitars. <br /> Both seemed intriguing to me, but with out ever using or seeing one in person, I was wondering how easy it was to install and whether or not the nut slots were able to be better adjusted for one's personal taste. I can understand the install process, but had wondered how close you would have to be and if any adjustment was left, once you had your best possible placement and approximate string relief was available after the install. <br /> Are string slots good for let's say a 10/11 gauge set of strings once it's installed? And if so, would you have to adjust the relief by sanding down the bottom of the nut or if you get it close, then how much tolerance is left for your string slot adjustment,uusing a nut slot file to get the proper back angle on it? <br /> Long story short, what was your method and experience on t whole process? And, how much gain was there to the entire length of your intonation across the neck?



littleuch

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Florida

Pronounced "Klinkhammer"
Nov 22nd, 2017 06:18 AM        

"Long story short, what was your method and experience on t whole process?"<br /> <br /> I'm far from methodical with this type of work and more of the proverbial bull in a China shop. My recollection is that I took a fair amount off of the bottom and then got the string height comfy (I use 11-48) using the dreaded welding tip cleaners. I may have even shaped some sharp corners at the ends of the nut. Its been a while. <br /> <br /> Sorry for not being more detailed but nut work is not one of my strong points. I am however satisfied with the outcome. <br /> <br /> Maybe someone with more bench time can weigh in on their experiences with Earvana nut installations.



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