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FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / My PRS-style build underway

Previous 20 Messages  
Peegoo
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Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Feb 7th, 2019 06:17 AM   Edit   Profile  

WOW Mick, that looks totally custom-shop. Nice color!

Leftee
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VA

Toxic Humility
Feb 7th, 2019 06:24 AM   Edit   Profile  

Larry, there is an outfit on Reverb that sells kits, as well. The store is Bargain Musician. I bought a spault top LP kit and an Explorer Kit. Both seem decent, although the hardware ain’t all that. Both kits were under $200 (each).

I figure the worst case is I have some cool-looking wall decorations.

(This message was last edited by Leftee at 08:25 AM, Feb 7th, 2019)

Tinkerer
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San Diego, CA USA

Feb 7th, 2019 09:06 AM   Edit   Profile  

That is beautiful!!!

Te 52

Laws of Physics

strictly enforced
Feb 7th, 2019 11:43 AM   Edit   Profile  

Very nice, Mick, I love the transparancey of dye finishes, and you got a very smooth, even result. Did you use any kind of anti-blotch treatment before applying the dye?

Ryder
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Northwest Missouri

Butterscotch Blues
Feb 7th, 2019 11:52 AM   Edit   Profile  

Mick, that ie gorgous! As Peegoo said, “Nice color.”

Mick Reid
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Feb 7th, 2019 03:18 PM   Edit   Profile  

Thanks again guys.

"Did you use any kind of anti-blotch treatment before applying the dye?"

No Te 52, just lucky I guess!
I did have a couple of areas on the back (and on the neck) that probably would have benefited from a treatment, but I managed to get an "acceptable" balance with persistence.

Larry - re: set neck; this is my first, so time will tell! I'm reasonably confident I'll do okay.
I should also say that it's this place and the folks in it that have given me that confidence :^)


Mick Reid
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Feb 7th, 2019 06:17 PM   Edit   Profile  

Here's back of the body...

Colour balance with the dye isn't perfect and there's some blotching, but not too bad imo. It also varies with viewing angle.

Tru Oil hasn't been flattened & polished yet. Still have 6 or so coats to go once I set the neck.

"Custom Dark Cherry"

Leftee
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VA

Toxic Humility
Feb 7th, 2019 08:10 PM   Edit   Profile  

Looks great!

stratluvr
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Alcohol- Because No

Good Story Ever Started by Eating Salad
Feb 8th, 2019 04:55 AM   Edit   Profile  

Looks great. How do you keep the dye from staining the binding. That would be my big fear.

Leftee
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VA

Toxic Humility
Feb 8th, 2019 05:46 AM   Edit   Profile  

^ Great question!

Or... does it stain the binding? Does the binding just not take stain?

I have a set neck project with binding waiting in the queue.

Of course, it’s a spault top. So it might not turn out so wonderful. (-;

Mick Reid
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Feb 8th, 2019 05:53 AM   Edit   Profile  

Thanks stratluvr.

"How do you keep the dye from staining the binding."

I masked the binding on the side as closely as I could with painter's tape, but it's dang near impossible to not get some on there via seepage or minor exposure.

The top edge of the binding is too narrow to mask (1.5mm) so I just went over it with the dye then scrape it back after it's dry.

The binding is plastic and doesn't really absorb the dye. It just kind of sits on top in a very thin layer. Scrapes off quite easily.

I made a DIY scraping tool with a Stanley knife blade and wooden dowel.

The same scraping process is done on the side binding where the dye got past the masking.
It's kind of slow work but really no other way to do it. I actually found it rather therapeutic ;^P

I may sound like I know what I'm talking about, but this was my first dye w/ binding job and I learnt by doing (as well as heaps of prior research).

Now that I've done it, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.


Peegoo
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Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Feb 8th, 2019 08:12 AM   Edit   Profile  

A really great way to control stain lines for faux binding (a la PRS) is to do the finishing process backwards. Most stain is water-thin and likes to creep under tape, unless you use a gel stain and very light, almost dry applications.

Here's how to get perfect results and sharp stain lines on just about any kind of wood.

After final sanding of the bare wood, mask off the the areas that will be receiving stain.

Next, shoot several coats of sanding sealer or clear coat. The first two coats should be really light; not self-leveling.

When it just starts to tack up, peel the masking tape, paying attention to pulling the tape toward the sprayed side (prevents strings of tacky finish laying onto the area to be stained). The tacky finish will lay flat along the tape lines. Let the finish cure, and then proceed with the stain of choice.

Even if you get stain over the clear, it can be scraped off with a razor. The really cool thing about this is even if you're sanding the stained wood, the line will still be really sharp because you partially sand off the clear coat.

When ready to shoot clear over stain, take care to use super light coats (with full dry time between), especially along the faux binding areas. Light coats; not self-leveling.

This is especially important with nitro because until clear coat sets hard, the solvents in the liquid clear can bring stain pigments back into solution and 'bleed' stain into the unstained areas, making your sharp lines go fuzzy. If this happens, it can make a normally-sane person throw tools around the shop.

If you've never tried this technique, it's a fun experiment to cut a section of two-be-four and practice on it. Even if you have no guitar to finish, it is time well spent because you'll go into your next guitar project with some solid experience in your bag o' tricks.

This is a great way to do faux binding on a headstock too.



Peegoo
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Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Feb 8th, 2019 08:29 AM   Edit   Profile  

The technique above also works to protect applied binding.

Gibson dispenses with this entire masking process and shoots stain/color directly over binding, and follows up by scraping. It saves a lot of time; Gibson has perfected the scraping technique to high art. The people on their production line are very good at it and very fast.

The folks at PRS do the masking process I outlined above because it yields perfect lines. It does add extra production time, but it's the reason why PRS finishes are the best of any production line in the world.

PRS production is as labor intensive as a special-order custom guitar.

Bubbalou
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USA

THE LOW END OF UPPER TEJAS
Feb 9th, 2019 09:11 PM   Edit   Profile  

That is a beautiful job!

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Mar 6th, 2019 06:23 PM   Edit   Profile  

Thought I'd post another "in-progress" photo since I set the neck a couple weeks ago.

I put the last of 25 coats of Tru Oil on yesterday so it's waiting time again before the final stages of level & polish (finish) and hardware installation etc.

I've already done a fret level and installed a new Tusq nut. Once the finish is cured, it won't take long for the rest to come together.

Slowly getting there...

hurry up and wait ;^)

Leftee
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VA

Toxic Humility
Mar 6th, 2019 06:31 PM   Edit   Profile  

Looking great!

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Mar 6th, 2019 06:39 PM   Edit   Profile  

Cheers Leftee!


Leftee
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VA

Toxic Humility
Mar 6th, 2019 06:55 PM   Edit   Profile  

I’m done with projects, for the moment, but you’re inspiring me to get the Explorer kit going.

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Mar 6th, 2019 08:33 PM   Edit   Profile  

"I’m done with projects, for the moment, but..."

Yeah, that "but" gets me every time!

I haven't finished this build yet and I just ordered some parts for the *next* one!

I think I need help...

Oh btw, it's going to be a hardtail strat of some kind (cuz I don't have one of those yet).


Peegoo
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Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Mar 6th, 2019 10:32 PM   Edit   Profile  

Oh yeah!

Previous 20 Messages  

FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / My PRS-style build underway




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