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FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Locking nut question



Jan 14th, 2019 10:45 PM   Edit   Profile  

I have this guitar with a Floyd Rose whammy bridge and locking nut. It has a tilt-back headstock and a bar just behind the nut which pulls down all six strings by adjusting the screws at either end of the bar.

This "shred" type of guitar is not typically what I would choose for a blues axe because I'm not a fan of locking nuts. I've removed the 3 string clamps on the nut allowing tuning anytime with the machine heads. I always had issues with the nut locked down as the fine tuners on the bridge would eventually get maxed out after a few tunes necessitating using an allen key to unscrew the lock-downs, set the bridge fine tuners to nominal, re-tune and re-lockdown. I made sure when new strings were installed to pre stretch them to minimize tuning issues but my style of play is aggressive with large bends and pops needing frequent access to the machine heads.

So now I'm using the guitar with the bridge micro adjust tuners set all the way in and have no string lockdowns on the nut. Call me weird but I like it better this way.

What I wonder about is the function of the 6 string bar just behind the nut and whether or not it is needed now. I have removed it and haven't noticed any buzzing in the nut area. The headstock has a good deal of tiltback angle so everything seems to work like a regular guitar. Can anyone think of a good reason why the pressdown string bar should be used?

Contributing Member

Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Jan 15th, 2019 02:07 AM   Edit   Profile  

The string bar is on there to ensure the strings all leave the back of the nut at the same angle so the locking plates can evenly clamp them down without putting a kink in a string.

If you're not using the locks on the nut, no need for the strings to run under the bar.

Contributing Member

New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Jan 15th, 2019 09:39 AM   Edit   Profile  

The bar is there to preposition the strings like Peegoo says but also since the strings are in full contact with the contour of the nut, the pitch of the string (tuning) changes less when the block is tightened. Without the bar, the string would have a tendency to go sharp as the block was tightened.



Jan 15th, 2019 11:40 AM   Edit   Profile  

Thank you Gents, I'll keep it off then. Looks better removed as well. Cheers!



Jan 28th, 2019 04:23 PM   Edit   Profile  

Another thought occurred to me about modding this Floyd Rose "EDGE' bridge in a way which would eliminate cutting the balls of the strings off and needing to lock-down each string at the bridge. I've grown fond of the tone of this bridge but dread string changes because of needing two different (usually misplaced) allen keys to do it.

I would appreciate any input from FDP's knowledgeable oracles on how if possible this might be achieved.



Why do I keep fixing things that work?
Jan 28th, 2019 05:36 PM   Edit   Profile  

The bridge clamp and the locking nut clamp should use the same wrench???

Anyway, other than wound strings, I position the tuners so that they are inline with the neck, then I pull the strings through the tuners toward the bridge. Next, I'll lock the strings in place and tune up. The ball end of the strings are now behind the tuners and after a couple of winds, cut off the ball ends. Now for the wound strings, you have to trim off the plain ends and lock down the wrapped portion into the bridge locking clamp.
If you don't have to clean the fretboard, then I just change one string at a time, thus not having severe tuning issues. All strings need stretching once replaced so that you are not chasing tuning all day, but this is how I do it and after I have stretched and tuned to pitch, lock down the locking nut clamp.
The string bar should be adjusted to where the strings travel smoothly across the nut surface toward the tuners. If you have the bar down too far, when you clamp'em down, it will always cause you to go sharp on your tuning. The string bar helps in aiding you to clamp properly without chasing your tuning a lot. I think to leave the locking nut clamps off isn't the best way to use those types of nuts, as they aren't properly grooved to channel the string down the neck and forget about bending notes near the nut area, the string will probably move a lot and besides tuning issues, the strings will move and cause weird spacing issues and may feel uncomfortable due to the strings sliding, side-to-side...
This is just my opinion, but from my experience, I have tried this idea out and in the end, went back to using the locking nut....
Best Regards, Woody

Contributing Member

Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Jan 28th, 2019 05:54 PM   Edit   Profile  

That's how I do it: strings on backwards, through the tuning posts, then out to the bridge.

There's really no good way to cheat the system and get around having to use the string clamps at the bridge.



Jan 28th, 2019 07:42 PM   Edit   Profile  

Cal-Woody thanks for responding and you're right about the tool, the other allen key was for intonation. I'll try installing the strings as you suggest, it's probably faster.

Peegoo thanks as always for your wisdom it's appreciated.


Nicoma Park, OK.

"Let the music do the talking"
Feb 16th, 2019 11:21 PM   Edit   Profile  

Here's the proper use of the bar behind a floyd Rose nut. Start at 1:45.

Floyd Rose bar adjustment

FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Locking nut question

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