FDP Home Page / FDP Forum / FAQ's

The FDP is made possible by the following companies and individual members like you.
Please use the links below to show them we value their sponsorship.

Yellowjackets Tube Converters

WD Music

Musician's Friend

Advertise here

Apex Tube Matching

Antique Electronics Supply

MOD KITS DIY

Guitar Center

Jensen Loudspeakers

Sweetwater

Amplified Parts


* God bless America and our men and women in uniform *

* Illegitimi non carborundum! *

If you benefit and learn from the FDP and enjoy our site, please help support us and become a Contributing Member or make a Donation today! The FDP counts on YOU to help keep the site going with an annual contribution. It's quick and easy with PayPal. Please do it TODAY!

Chris Greene, Host & Founder

LOST YOUR PASSWORD?

......................................................................

   
FDP Jam
Calendar
Find musicians
in your area!
  Search the Forums  

FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Holy smokes, truss rod is cracking the back of my acoustic neck!!

Previous 20 Messages  
larryguitar19
Contributing Member
*****

South Florida

larryguitar
Jan 19th, 2018 10:12 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I got a feeling you can't do that and this is the end and you are nowhere man.

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
**********
*

New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Jan 19th, 2018 10:13 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Its about time we had some action here on this forum.

Peegoo
Contributing Member
**********
**********
********

Tried vegetarian:

miss steak.
Jan 19th, 2018 10:28 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Snake PLISKIN?

I thought you were DEAD.


Good to hear from you wrnchbndr!

Leftee
Contributing Member
**********
**********

VA

Life makes a man tired.
Jan 19th, 2018 10:59 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Whew!

Dolemite

What It Was!

Fairly Unbalanced
Jan 19th, 2018 11:12 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

You guys are the (Pete) best.

wrnchbndr

New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Jan 19th, 2018 11:16 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

...witness protection be damned. This post was probably just a way to get me to surface and the crack in neck is just something done on photoshop.
I can't post on Moes. Guess I gotta buy a star - I don't mind.

(This message was last edited by wrnchbndr at 01:18 PM, Jan 19th, 2018)

Te 52

Laws of Physics

strictly enforced
Jan 19th, 2018 11:26 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

For the benefit of those of us who haven't seen a photo, it sounds like this crack is along the grain, not across the grain, is that correct?

Dolemite

What It Was!

Fairly Unbalanced
Jan 19th, 2018 11:32 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Correct.

Dolemite

What It Was!

Fairly Unbalanced
Jan 19th, 2018 11:32 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Yes it is.

wrnchbndr

New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Jan 19th, 2018 12:06 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

a two to three inch narrow fissure with the grain on the back of the neck going from just behind the nut to between the 2nd and third fret. Never seen this before. I've seen player wear on an old Gibson SG actually expose the back of a trussrod behind the forth fret -- not really a concern for playability. I'm quite sure that the integrity of the neck wood must have been compromised from the manufacturer. The stresses from the trussrod don't lend themselves to creating this without there being a flaw in the first place.

littleuch
Contributing Member
**********
******

Florida

Jan 19th, 2018 12:58 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

"Yes it is"

I caught it.

I'm guessing fixing a crack is easier than fixing, ah, nevermind.

Peegoo
Contributing Member
**********
**********
********

Tried vegetarian:

miss steak.
Jan 19th, 2018 01:00 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Mark, I had the exact same thing on an out-of-warranty Gibson CS ES339 in 2015. A crack that started dead center in the back of the neck right under the nut and ran with the grain halfway to the 2nd fret. I contacted Gibson and they asked to see the guitar.

I sent it to the Memphis shop; they took two weeks to evaluate it.

Rather than repair it, they send me a new one. Which was actually a better guitar than the original was.

I think a truss rod that is too tight can cause this condition due to wood that's too longitudinally compressed. The laminated fingerboard prevents the wood from splitting above the rod, so it gives way underneath.

Peegoo
Contributing Member
**********
**********
********

Tried vegetarian:

miss steak.
Jan 19th, 2018 01:02 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Oh, and we all really were worried about you.

Dolemite generously volunteered to actually break one of his guitars to force you out of hiding.

If that ain't a team player--thain't no such thang!

littleuch
Contributing Member
**********
******

Florida

Jan 19th, 2018 01:06 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

All Fab puns aside, I had an Epi Masterbilt that I had replaced twice due to wood issues. The 2nd replacement I eventually traded with a lifted bridge. This was some time ago and I had people speculate it had to do with the age/integrity of the wood Epiphone was using at the time. I don't know how old yer git is, or if this is even relevant.

Dolemite

What It Was!

Fairly Unbalanced
Jan 19th, 2018 01:23 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Will try fixing a hole where the glue gets in.

Peegoo
Contributing Member
**********
**********
********

Tried vegetarian:

miss steak.
Jan 19th, 2018 03:43 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

It won't be long...you know what to do!

uncle stack-knob
Contributing Member
**********
****

united kingdom

Jan 20th, 2018 05:13 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Peegoo.......... With the greatest respect for your ever helpful input to the cause of instrument repair,I will have to say to you that with reference to your response to my initial post,you are indeed wrong here....
I stated to the original poster: "Stop" and to BEWARE what may occur.People often try repairs of this nature using such things as water thin superglue,etc.That can lead to all kinds of problems.
I was merely proferring a word of caution,by way of some kind of help.

I have spent nigh on the last thirty years building instruments for people,making replacement necks for people who wanted them,always from the "raw" materials and refretting old and new,refinishing,and finishing all kinds,rewiring;it goes on and on,and often self initiated repairs by the instruments' owner end up on the repairers bench due to wrong technique and so on.
I see where you're coming from,but to say that glue on a truss rod is NOT going to affect anything is wrong and can be demonstrated as such.
To make the point,consider the visible amount of thread on a Gibson truss rod evident between tensioned and not tensioned.The difference is not great,but it is there.
Or,make yourself a one piece maple neck,install the pre-curved truss rod and adjuster,and before installing the "skunk stripe" tension and loosen the adjuster and observe the behaviour of the truss rod itself.....
If that rod were to be glued in the channel by any significant amount,then all that would happen would be that the adjuster would,when tightened,not tension the rod but simply compress the wood where it butts up against the seat of the adjuster drilling.

Oh yes,and I am not stupid enough to believe that a truss rod "rotates" as you mention,when considering a "vintage" style installation in a curved channel.There are of course many different types of truss rod around these days,and it does well to think about those as well..

Stack-Knob.

(This message was last edited by uncle stack-knob at 09:20 AM, Jan 20th, 2018)

Peegoo
Contributing Member
**********
**********
********

Tried vegetarian:

miss steak.
Jan 20th, 2018 08:09 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Stack-Knob, no offense intended--and none taken.

Cheers!

Leftee
Contributing Member
**********
**********

VA

Life makes a man tired.
Jan 20th, 2018 09:11 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Guys...

Come together

Right now

Sorry, I can't stop. ;-)

catnineblue

LA , Calif

I try my best
Jan 20th, 2018 08:58 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic


I think / not certain, Epi truss rods are two way rods. Gibson's at least most still have single action.

Lately I've been trying to find out and from what I've read many newer guitars acoustic or solid body have leaned toward dual action with the idea when using lighter gauge strings there may not be enough tension to pull any relief into the neck then you resort to heating the board and using a beam and three clamps to get it back. You want the strings to pull relief and the rod to be able to adjust it.

I've only build one guitar using a stewmac hot rod dual action. I have three acoustics two Epi's and a Seagull all have dual action.

The main thing I do not like about dual action is they route the neck so the rod touches the board with no filler strip. Even though the board is maybe rose wood most fret slots are cut straight across the board . In doing so you do lose board thickness in the center right where the rod bears against, not a lot yet enough IMHO. Seagull does not do this. I know Taylor uses a one way rod/compression.

I prefer a good neck and a single action rod with a filler strip on top and this is the way I made all on my own builds and never had an issue. Fender had a good idea with their curved rods.

I think Godin/Seagull cover their rods so glue won't stick . I can't say on Epi's.

I always wrapped truss rods and lightly oiled the nuts threads before installing as well as tapped off the nut when gluing in the filler strip then I could get at the nut and remove the tape after. All adjusted at the heel end except a Rick copy I built long ago.

I've never had a neck split even on guitars I didn't build and perhaps it is the wood used or to tight of rod slot. Since wood can absorb moisture it will shrink or expand the rod won't. You don't want rod rattle yet the slot should not be what controls this. I always liked the aluminum U channel one way rods drop in fit and epoxied in place all three flat sides. I would get the slot cut fit the rod and fit a filler strip then mix and place the epoxy in the stop , drop the channel/rod in then the strip and clamp. Then trim the strip flush. No water to swell and wait then glue the board on.

This is just the way I like to do it. There are all sorts of ways just as good.

Rick I hope yours works out as new.

Previous 20 Messages  

FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Holy smokes, truss rod is cracking the back of my acoustic neck!!




Reply to this Topic
Display my email address             Lost your password?
Your Message:
Link Address (URL):
Link Title:




Moderators: Chris Greene  Iron Man  reverendrob  

FDP, LLC Privacy Policy: Your real name, username, and email
are held in confidence and not disclosed to any third parties, sold, or
used for anything other than FDP Forum registration unless you specifically authorize disclosure.

Furtkamp.com 
Internet Application Development

Copyright © 1999-2018 Fender Discussion Page, LLC   All Rights Reserved