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FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Holy smokes, truss rod is cracking the back of my acoustic neck!!

Next 20 Messages  
Dolemite

What It Was!

Fairly Unbalanced
Jan 18th, 2018 04:21 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Epi EJ160E, about 3” long perpendicular crack in the wood from 2nd to 4th fret. It’s my gigging acoustic, I use it all the time in a Beatle tribute.

Help! (No pun intended)

littleuch
Contributing Member
**********
******

Florida

Jan 18th, 2018 07:13 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

There shouldn't be any cracks on that guitar. Nowhere, man. If it's purely cosmetic you might just want to let it be.


Ok, that wasn't helpful.

Leftee
Contributing Member
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VA

Life makes a man tired.
Jan 18th, 2018 07:41 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

At least it’s along the grain and not helter skelter.

Sounds like it needs some glue and a clamp. And many more gigs.

Dolemite

What It Was!

Fairly Unbalanced
Jan 18th, 2018 09:02 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

This is serious - Don't Let Me Down.

Dolemite

What It Was!

Fairly Unbalanced
Jan 18th, 2018 09:04 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Looks about 1/8" deep, definitely splitting the wood, not just finish. So would I clean it out with a razor and hide glue & clamp it? Not too concerned with how it looks when it's done, it's a workhorse.

I put a nice Baggs Anthem in it and the set up is like an electric. From Me To You, I'd hate to part with it.

(This message was last edited by Dolemite at 11:08 AM, Jan 18th, 2018)

Leftee
Contributing Member
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VA

Life makes a man tired.
Jan 18th, 2018 09:09 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Hey Goo...

littleuch
Contributing Member
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Florida

Jan 18th, 2018 09:10 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

The clamp and glue may help that bad boy come together.

But seriously, I'd wait for a Peegoo or wrenchbndr to come along and help you with every little thing.

Dolemite

What It Was!

Fairly Unbalanced
Jan 18th, 2018 10:02 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

OK. Wait, and Let It Be.

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
**********
*

New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Jan 18th, 2018 10:44 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Need a picture


Dolemite

What It Was!

Fairly Unbalanced
Jan 18th, 2018 11:35 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Hey Mark, check your email, sent a quick phone pic.

Peegoo
Contributing Member
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Tried vegetarian:

miss steak.
Jan 18th, 2018 12:06 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Mark (wrnchbndr) will know what to do.

Here's my approach. Remove the strings, force glue into the crack, loosen the truss rod completely, and then clamp it (in that order).

You have to work fast so the glue does not set up as you work. If you loosen the rod before you apply the glue, the crack will probably close up and you can't get the glue in.

I use Titebond II for this stuff. I run a bead along the crack and use a very narrow jet of compressed air to 'blow' the glue into the crack. This is messy work, but it works great. If you cover the work with a clear plastic bag it prevents glue splats from getting all over grandma's curtains.

Resist the temptation to use something hard like a knife blade or spatula to work the glue into the crack. That often displaces the wood fibers, and when little splinters get cattywompus in the crack, it won't completely close up when you clamp it.

uncle stack-knob
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united kingdom

Jan 19th, 2018 05:45 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Stop.
Beware that glue may well penetrate through to the trussrod,and proceed to bond that to the truss rod channel in the neck.....

Stack-Knob.

Peegoo
Contributing Member
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Tried vegetarian:

miss steak.
Jan 19th, 2018 08:43 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I respectfully disagree, sir. The truss rod does not rotate or move. There'e either tension on it or there's not.

There's not that much glue used, and even if some of the Titebond does get on the rod, it won't stick to the steel or plastic sleeve.

Leftee
Contributing Member
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**********

VA

Life makes a man tired.
Jan 19th, 2018 08:53 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I’m floored that Peegoo has not taken up the wordplay of the thread.

Shocked, I tell ya!

Peegoo
Contributing Member
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Tried vegetarian:

miss steak.
Jan 19th, 2018 09:57 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

What are you talking about, Leftee?

Dolemite simply asked, how do you do it, and I offered up some advice. Uncle Stack-Knob replied, "you can't do that."

Just trying to help. Otherwise, he'd get nowhere, man.

(This message was last edited by Peegoo at 12:02 PM, Jan 19th, 2018)

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
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New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Jan 19th, 2018 10:10 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I looked at the picture. This is just how I imagined it would be by the description. The location of the crack is concerning and it is just plain odd. My first thought is that it just may be a defect in the wood that has always been there and its just now that the winter weather and low humidity has caused the finish and grain filler to fail.

Questions:

1. Does the guitar still play well?
2. What is the relief like -- Capo the first fret and fret the 14th fret, how much distance is between the high E-string and the top of the 7th fret? ... I'd like to hear between .005 and .012" and check for about the same under the Low E-string.
3. On this guitar, is the trussrod under compression or is it a dual action rod and engaged for expansion? This is important to know.
4. I was going to ask if this was a headstock trussrod adjustment or was the adjustment located in the body at the end of neck but it really doesn't matter.

Assuming that the guitar still plays okay, My process would be to use the best magnifier I had to try and determine if adjusting the truss rod has any effect at all on the width of the crack. If it does, I'd adjust the truss rod to open the crack - very short of putting scary torque on it -- don't push your luck. The idea is to just open the crack a little more if you can and if the trussrod has no effect on the crack that is actually a good thing. Force "wood glue" into the crack using a medium guitar pick as an a squeegie -- move a puddle of glue back and forth for about two or three minutes cleaning up as needed but keep a puddle so the picks' flat side forces glue into the crack. Then from what ever state the truss rod is in, adjust it to where it is totally loose or neutral. Clean up any glue using a very slightly damp cotton cloth. Use 5 feet of 1/4" surgical tubing to close the crack wrapping tightly around the neck and leave it for two or three days. I do not believe glue that may enter the trussrod channel will impede the function of the trussrod.

More discussion please.

larryguitar19
Contributing Member
*****

South Florida

larryguitar
Jan 19th, 2018 10:12 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I got a feeling you can't do that and this is the end and you are nowhere man.

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
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New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Jan 19th, 2018 10:13 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Its about time we had some action here on this forum.

Peegoo
Contributing Member
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Tried vegetarian:

miss steak.
Jan 19th, 2018 10:28 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Snake PLISKIN?

I thought you were DEAD.


Good to hear from you wrnchbndr!

Leftee
Contributing Member
**********
**********

VA

Life makes a man tired.
Jan 19th, 2018 10:59 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Whew!

Next 20 Messages  

FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Holy smokes, truss rod is cracking the back of my acoustic neck!!




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