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FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Reshaping neck profile on all rosewood tele neck.

Previous 20 Messages  
Mick Reid
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Dec 28th, 2017 03:47 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Hey frogman, I went through this 2 years ago except on an all maple neck. Incidentally it was also a WD neck.

I started a thread on it back then and have the link below.

My OP and my post #17 are the bookends of the thread, but there's some good stuff in between as well.

Hope it helps. In summary, it's completely doable.

edit to add:
Use Peegoo's tip on the the steel rule, and it's worth reading my final post on the thread re: final profile shape.

internal link Aug 2015

(This message was last edited by Mick Reid at 05:57 PM, Dec 28th, 2017)

Therealfrogman
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Dec 28th, 2017 04:25 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Mick, thanks.

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Dec 28th, 2017 04:32 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Insert "thumb up" emoji here.

twangdoodles

michigan usa

Dec 29th, 2017 06:21 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

That is a very small amount to want to remove. You may notice the difference but is it really worth the trouble?

I wouldn't use 60 grit on that thing. It'll give you deep enough scratches that you'll end up spending a lot of time sanding. If you're really intent on doing it then I'd say start with no rougher than 100 grit. It'll take longer but will keep you honest with regard to removing too much.

Rosewood is a wonderful wood to work with as a rule (with hand tools anyway). I would be using a scraper for that myself. If you know how to dress one then you can take care of that in no time and only have to do minor sanding afterward.



Peegoo
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Curled up

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Dec 29th, 2017 06:55 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Better to poop your pants than poop on the neck. In reality you have less than about 1/8" to dig before you discover the Lost Silver Mine.

Several years back there was a thread here (I cannot remember the poor dude) who attempted thinning out a neck and THEN asked questions about the appearance of a "silver thing" in the wood.

Just...damn.

Anatomy of a Fender rear-loaded truss rod

Te 52

Laws of Physics

strictly enforced
Dec 29th, 2017 09:20 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

"...That is a very small amount to want to remove. You may notice the difference but is it really worth the trouble?..."

Note that the OP misplaced the decimal points in giving the original and desired dimensions. Desired thickness at first fret is .830", actual is .900". That's a difference of .070", not trivial in this context.

.070" is enough to make a significant difference in feel, and, without knowing exactly how the neck was constructed, enough to make sanding through into the truss rod slot a real risk.

Peegoo
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Dec 29th, 2017 11:27 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

If you have a pal with access to x-ray equipment, or they work for TSA, you may be able to get a happy snap of the neck.

Therealfrogman
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Dec 29th, 2017 01:42 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Peegoo, we have a small municipal airport pretty closeby.... I am pondering this idea. I have taken around 0.02 off so far without too much effort and I really do not consider it good yet.

Peegoo
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Curled up

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Dec 29th, 2017 02:25 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

TRF, stop at the local Dunkin' Donuts on the way and grab a box of a dozen mixed, as well as a box of hot chocolate and some cups.

This show of good will is your ticket to getting them to take a snap for you.



Failing that, you can test your progress with a small magnet. When the magnet sticks to the wood almost as well as it sticks to a 16d nail, you're dangerously close to striking silver.

1600
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USA

North of I10
Dec 29th, 2017 03:10 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Just curious. The pic/dwgs. so far are only for skunk stripe necks. Will it be as close to the radius for slab type necks? Some of the drawings I see on line (not Fender so I did not link) seem to show the rod closer to the slab.

Therealfrogman
Contributing Member
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Dec 29th, 2017 03:38 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

1600, good question. I do not have a good understanding of these things and until now I did not know that there was that much of a bow to begin with. In order for this thing to work would they bow it that much into the profile of a thick neck?

This thing is about what I have been using (two 50's style tele's)except for the shoulders on this necks profile I would be happy. Its kinda round and with the 12 radius its just too bulky.

The funny thing about all of this is that I just sold a real pretty flame maple neck like this to an FDPer a few months ago because I just could not warm up to the shape.

Funny because it did not occur to me what this was until I had tuners on it and mounting it.

I is dumb, aint no question bout that.

I did what Peegoo suggested with the magnet and there is only very slight pull on it at 7-8.



Mick Reid
Contributing Member
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Dec 29th, 2017 03:44 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I'll refer back to my 2015 thread on this subject where I used a 1mm drill bit and drilled into centre of the neck at the 7th fret. (see my post above)

In my case, the rod was 7.5mm deep there.

I know you end up with a hole to plug, but for me that wasn't issue cosmetically speaking. When I was done you had to look for it.

Also FWIW, I found the email exchange I had with WD and here part of the reply:

"Hi Mick,

It's an 18 inch truss rod which means you should have enough room to trim if it is headstock adjust and you are only taking off 1.5mm but I would shave it gradually to make sure. I believe there is about 3/16 inch between the end of the heel and the truss rod but not sure how far they have the trough going back to the heel.

David Lewis
WD Music Products"

(This message was last edited by Mick Reid at 05:46 PM, Dec 29th, 2017)

Peegoo
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Curled up

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Dec 29th, 2017 03:49 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Yeah, drilling a very small hole is another option--especially in a dark skunk stripe, because filling/hiding it will be a piece of cake.

Therealfrogman
Contributing Member
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Jan 1st, 2018 01:07 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I decided to try and make this neck like my road worn with a real slight V shape in the 1-5 fret area and its is coming along nicely.

I also decided to do it with the neck mounted and strung up so I could get better feel of what I am doing. I am using my radius blocks to create the taper and will use the 3M sanding spongy things to smooth it down.

The 1st fret is 0.88 12 is 0.90 so I have slimmed it just a tad and may or may not take it down more. I dont want you guys to lose any sleep wondering whats happening so I am checking in.



Peegoo
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Curled up

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Jan 1st, 2018 01:57 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Cool, that is a good solution because it removes wood from areas of the neck that allow you plenty of margin for tweaking to your preferences.

I don't know what kind of final finish you like on a neck, but it it's the road-worn feel of smooth, bare wood, leaving the maple unprotected can lead to the wood breaking down.

When you see darkened wood on worn areas of a maple neck that has been honestly worn of its finish, some of that dark color is a fungus that lives in the wood and causes it to deteriorate. It's the primary reason why--when maple fingerboards start to collect those divots--the wear progresses fairly rapidly. The worn wood, softened by the fungus and moisture, is more easily scraped away by the fingernails.

I mention all this to say it's a good idea to protect bare wood from moisture and salts from sweaty hands.

A very good way to preserve the look and feel of bare wood and protect it is to use a clear wiping varnish that leaves a matte or satin finish.

Watco Danish oil (natural/clear) is my favorite stuff for this purpose. You wipe it on the wood and leave it wet for about 10 minutes, and then scrub it dry with a cloth. Let that dry overnight, and repeat the process at least three times. Five times is better.

If you like a darker color, the golden oak is great for one or two applications, followed by applications of clear.

Danish oil sinks into the wood and hardens in (not on) the wood. It doesn't flake off, because it's not a coating. And it's not really an "oil" finish because it hardens and does not evaporate or wipe off through use like a true oil finish does.

And it can be re-coated anytime as necessary with no adhesion issues. Love the stuff.

This stuff.

Therealfrogman
Contributing Member
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Jan 1st, 2018 02:47 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Peegoo, that looks like something I want on this.

Thanks for the tip!

The first thing and only thing I did the the road worn was spray a few coats of reranch clear on the neck. I did not like the bare wood feel. Looks sorta weird because of the way Fender did these things with the fake fret wear but I was not up to re-finishing the thing.

I like the way lacquer feels verses poly.

Peegoo
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Curled up

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Jan 1st, 2018 02:54 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Ah...then go with the nitro lacquer. That works great too, but it does coat the wood and you lose that wood-grain feel in the hand.

Nothing wrong with that at all; how a guitar feels is a very personal thing. Some players love the smooth feel of catalyzed polyester on a neck.

Therealfrogman
Contributing Member
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Jan 1st, 2018 04:23 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I do not like what fender did to these RW's to make them look played and I know it looks crappy but it feels good.

Forum Pic

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
*****

Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Jan 1st, 2018 08:31 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I don't think I've ever seen wear patterns like that on any *real* vintage guitar.
That's just vintage CHEESE!

Peegoo
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Curled up

in the fecal position
Jan 1st, 2018 10:20 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Those frets look beautiful!

What, you ain't playin' much these days? :oP

Previous 20 Messages  

FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Reshaping neck profile on all rosewood tele neck.




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