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FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Got me a classic vibe telecaster body coming

Previous 20 Messages  
Peegoo
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Curled up

in the fecal position
Dec 18th, 2017 09:24 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Cheers, Mick.

There's more than one way to skin a cat.

That's why you often see various techs comparing notes about the most accurate way to align the doohickey with the thing-a-ma-jig.

You find a procedure that gives you consistently good results and you run with it.

Imagine what it would've been like if there were Internet boards in the age of the Renaissance around 1590...

Luca Cattapani: "I'm getting good results painting puffy clouds with a #3 boar-bristle fan brush, but the paint tends to dry too fast on the bristles. I tried thinning the paint, but then I get no build and I lose the 3-D relief."

Ottavio Semini: "A FAN brush? Have you been watching that downer-popping pill freak Roberto Ross on TV? He knows nothing about painting in the classic style. Try a small palette knife. You'll get better depth and texture."

Amateur alert!

(This message was last edited by Peegoo at 11:33 AM, Dec 18th, 2017)

Therealfrogman
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Dec 18th, 2017 09:48 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

"the joy of fretting" har..

is poly easier or harder to work with when removing frets? I plan to just heat and pull up gently. I have scored the frets with an exacto.

Peegoo
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Curled up

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Dec 18th, 2017 09:57 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

It's not necessarily more difficult. It just necessitates an extra step or two.

If you use the 'tap out sideways' method, watch the opposite end carefully to see if the wood begins to break as the tang starts to move in the wood. Sometimes the tang tries to push a small chip out the side of the fingerboard.

If this happens, drill a 1/8" hole in a small hardwood block and clamp it to the neck so when you tap the fret sideways, the end of the fret goes into the hole. The hardwood prevents the side of the fingerboard around the tang from being pressed outward.

Once the fret moves about 3/16", you can remove the block and continue, because if the wood is prone to being pushed out by the tang, it will happen in the first 1/8" of travel.

Therealfrogman
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Dec 18th, 2017 10:35 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Thanks, P.

Cal-Woody

USA/California

Why do I keep fixing things that work?
Dec 18th, 2017 12:47 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Following up on this method, am I assuming that you are also installing the frets from the side, as opposed to top install?
I have heard that with side installation requires a more accurate fret radius to prevent future problems of lifting, along with beveling the leading edge to prevent the fret from digging into the fretboard? And is it advised not to press the fret in?
If I slide the fret in place, I'll use super thin glue to seep into thefret tangs and then clamp it afterwards with my radiused brass culls. I also use accelorator to speed up the drying process.
I'm asking because this has not been addressed yet.
Always good to learn all methods and practices.
Thanks, Woody

Therealfrogman
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Dec 18th, 2017 01:00 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I will not be installing the frets from the side, I will simply use a dead blow hammer to seat them, Dan Erliwine has a YT video showing his approach to refretting a vintage neck link added below. If I need to glue I will use a radius block to clamp the frets.

The frets are pre radiused and they look to fit perfectly. The tangs appear to be the same height as the frets that are on it now.

Dan

Cal-Woody

USA/California

Why do I keep fixing things that work?
Dec 18th, 2017 07:00 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

One of the cool tools I have is the fret slot cleaner. It's basically a frame with 2 small blades on each end and use it to clear away debris in the fret slots. Looks like a hacksaw with a large gap for clearing the neck while cleaning out the slots. It works well for cleaning out the slots and if needed, to deepen the existing slots slightly.
When working with an ebony fretboard, I would recommend using the maple fret removing techniques. That stuff chips like crazy!


Therealfrogman
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Dec 18th, 2017 07:04 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Frets came out pretty nicely, I would say textbook nice. Here is a pic at about 3/4 the way. I had scored the fret edges prior to putting the tape in place.

The poly in the upper register really was pretty thick I think due to them being so close together but they came out just like I wanted them to.

Non-Sausage link

Mick Reid
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Dec 18th, 2017 07:08 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

This is ALL great stuff!
I'm sure I will referring back here and other similar post in the coming months when I'm ready to undertake the refret.

Further to what Peegoo suggested (a cracker of a tip btw) I think I've read (or saw a video) about using an exacto on the fret ends as well as the length of the fret to stop the finish/wood from chipping out.

Maybe someone else can confirm or advise on this.


Peegoo
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Curled up

in the fecal position
Dec 18th, 2017 07:18 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

YEes, you do need to score the finish all the way around each fret with a sharp blade--especially gloss maple boards that are sprayed after the frets are installed. Many Fenders are done this way.

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Dec 18th, 2017 07:20 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Cool. My project will be a maple FB.

Therealfrogman
Contributing Member
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Dec 18th, 2017 08:06 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

It is really easy to slip that xacto all over the places where the finish is thick on the fret edges. Takes some concentration to keep it where you want it, I learned this from videos, I was lucky and only have a small cut on my left thumb :) There wasn't much finish on the fret ends but I did scrape off what I could see before I pulled them.

I am using a thin round jewelers file to go over the fret slots and flatten out the berms left from the poly. I will post a pic tomorrow when I have that done.

Cal-Woody

USA/California

Why do I keep fixing things that work?
Dec 18th, 2017 08:06 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Peegoo, it's not yet mentioned but do you side install your frets on maple or tap/press them in?

Peegoo
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Curled up

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Dec 18th, 2017 09:37 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I press them in flat. I don't slide them.

One way to really control the knife is to place the index finger of the other hand on the knife chuck (just above the blade, opposite to the direction of travel.

Apply a little opposing pressure as the other hand pulls the blade into the work. The index finger allows you to hit the brakes because it prevents the blade from traveling very far.

It also improves control if you incline the handle of the knife about 30-40 degrees. That way you're pressing the cutting edge into the work, rather than pressing the blade away from the work.

Therealfrogman
Contributing Member
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Dec 19th, 2017 01:05 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Bob Smith industries UN-CURE will take a shiny poly finish and turn it into a matte finish, just sayin... And yes I meant to do that :)

I will have to apply it evenly but I really like it. Nice and smooth.

Therealfrogman
Contributing Member
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Dec 21st, 2017 11:07 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Here is a shot of it after going at it with a file. I know that frets are not perfect out of the box, there is one fret that is just high. I put a drop of CA on all of the tang ends and I am very happy with the progress! Need to order a nut as I am sure this one will be too low.

I only have a 9 1/5 radius block so I am going to use a level beam to do a level after I take care of that one fret. I have a all rosewood tele neck coming as well and I am not sure which guitar will get it, most likely the one I started this thread about, I also have some hipshot open back staggered tuners coming and they will go on the rosewood neck, I am going to use the universal mounting plate for that so I will not need to drill any holes.

I made a beveling block a while back a while back and I cut the slot at 35 degrees, does not look right to me but I used it anyway just holding the thing at the angle I thought it should be, the pic tells the story.

After filing

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Dec 21st, 2017 03:25 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Looking good frogman!

Peegoo
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Curled up

in the fecal position
Dec 21st, 2017 03:55 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

WOW, nicely done!

Therealfrogman
Contributing Member
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Pueblo, Co

illegal is a sick bird....
Dec 21st, 2017 05:14 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Its done, I am happy with it. Stewmac is giving token gifts at checkout too :) I got a couple things and got $15 off.

And thank you!

Thineline neck

(This message was last edited by Therealfrogman at 07:20 PM, Dec 21st, 2017)

Cal-Woody

USA/California

Why do I keep fixing things that work?
Dec 21st, 2017 06:01 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Spot on! Nice work! Finish looks good also.

Need to get off my backside and get mine done also.

I've kinda wondered about heating up the exacto blade before scoring the finish but thought that it would probably just resell itself afterwards, so, I'll do it the old fashioned way.

Inspirational and really nicely done.

Previous 20 Messages  

FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Got me a classic vibe telecaster body coming




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