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FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / My latest Tru Oil project

Previous 20 Messages  
Mick Reid
Contributing Member
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 11th, 2017 04:21 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Thanks everyone.
Cal, it plays great! It could be considered one of my more "over-capitalised" "cheap" guitars!

I posted another thread about this guitar a while back. I put Fender Vintage Noiseless in place of the stock HB's and it really gives it a unique sound.

As I've said previously, I bought this guitar as a platform for experimenting and so far it's paid off :^)


Peegoo
Contributing Member
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Enjoying

the downtime
Oct 12th, 2017 08:22 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

That looks totally pro, brother.

Nice work.

Teching on cheepie guitars is how everyone learns this stuff. You develop techniques and processes that work well for you, and they improve as you go.

Keep at it. Hang out a shingle!

Leftee
Contributing Member
*******

VA

One foot on the brake, one on the GAS
Oct 12th, 2017 12:04 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

They have a vaccine for that.

Hammond101
Contributing Member
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So. Cal. USA

Oct 12th, 2017 12:07 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Nice work Mick! You "are" the vaccine for guitar virus!

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 12th, 2017 01:41 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

"You "are" the vaccine for guitar virus!"

That's a good thing - right? ;^)


Hammond101
Contributing Member
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So. Cal. USA

Oct 12th, 2017 02:17 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Absolutely :-)

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
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New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Oct 13th, 2017 10:26 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I need to try this method of finishing.

1600
Contributing Member
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USA

North of I10
Oct 13th, 2017 10:45 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Good job! I have done 3 guitars and four necks with Tru Oil. Here is an example of Tru Oil on figured non musical walnut. I like to leave a bit of the grain and not totally level the oil. It's easier and does not look like a poly finish.

Try Oil on walnut

Peegoo
Contributing Member
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Enjoying

the downtime
Oct 13th, 2017 10:50 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I prefer Danish oil over Tru Oil, but it's basically the same stuff--just a little thinner.

A gunstock finish (slurry sanding) is really beautiful when using either finish. Traditional gunsmiths use boiled linseed oil and achieve the same effect. The finish isn't just on the surface of the wood; it's in the wood. And it's impervious to the elements.

Te 52

Laws of Physics

strictly enforced
Oct 13th, 2017 02:08 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

"...I need to try this method of finishing..."

If you've used Minwax wipe-on poly, you've got the idea. Tru-Oil is thicker and dries more slowly, but it takes fewer coats to achieve the same build. They're both excellent products.

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
****

Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 13th, 2017 04:12 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Nice BONG 1600!!!

Te 52: Minwax isn't available here (yet). They have an AU website but the "Where To Buy" page still says Coming Soon.

If & when it come available, I'll likely give it a go.


1600
Contributing Member
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USA

North of I10
Oct 13th, 2017 05:54 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Wow Mick, I never saw that! Now you have me thinking. I have to figure out how to make the next one water proof. I guess I could do the inside with poly.
Thanks for the idea Mate.

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
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New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Oct 14th, 2017 10:12 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I've used the Formbys Tung Oil finish on a couple of guitars. It's not true tung oil as the name implies but rather a varnish with some tung oil in it. Its basically apply a thin coat, wait 12 hours, cut back with 0000 steel wool, apply another coat... On maple, I've achieved a gloss lacquer finish. I haven't tried the slurry method of grain filling.

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
****

Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 14th, 2017 04:11 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

"...Its basically apply a thin coat, wait 12 hours, cut back with 0000 steel wool, apply another coat..."

wrench - one of the things I like about the Tru Oil is I can 3 coats per day. I get a coat on about every 3 hours and let the last one set overnight hitting it with 1000 synthetic pad between coats.

This last job, I didn't do anything between the last 3 or 4 coats until post-cure wet sand & polish.

Tru Oil is also not a "true oil". It does have some kind of polymers in it, and AFAIK, linseed oil is one of it's ingredients.


Cal-Woody

USA/California

Why do I keep fixing things that work?
Oct 18th, 2017 08:11 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I was watching a friend who has a acoustic guitar building business and was taken aback by how he used 'pumice' mixture for grain filling on a rosewood bodied uke that he had built.
While not have ever done a guitar finish from raw wood, I have never heard of this method. I am not certain of his ingredients used with the pumice, but the pumice was a powdery consistency and has used it with great results. It didn't seem to cloud up or reduce the final result, but you mentioned a slurry used for grain filling and was wondering if this was a material that you had used also? Then again, I'm not sure what is in those products that are offered for grain filling.
He had done a few videos show casing his builds and restorations, of which he has done many, but through out these videos, none had shown or given any hint as to application of finishes used but did see him apply the powdered pumice then wipe over it with some sort of finishing oil and alcohol mixture.
That's all I got from this!
Just thought I'd share an observation.....

M Tracy
Contributing Member
*******

Lafayette IN

Oct 18th, 2017 09:57 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

The pumice method is usually used with shellac. You pad a couple coats on then take a pad with a tiny bit of pumice and alcohol and scrub away. The oil is just to keep the pad from sticking, the alcohol melts the shellac and the pumice helps mix wood fibers into the shellac to fill the grain. It's very labor intensive but works.
Oh yeah, nice work Mick

Cal-Woody

USA/California

Why do I keep fixing things that work?
Oct 18th, 2017 10:21 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Correctly identified! He had used shellac with alcohol for the wiping method. He mentioned that that the alcohol thinned out the shellac and aided with the ease of wiping while not becoming tacky and it seemed to flow easily and cleanly.
Thanks for helping me to understand this better.
I'd never heard or really seen the method used and found it very informative. Are you familiar with this Mick?
Just thought I'd share. ....... Woody

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 18th, 2017 06:33 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Cal, I've heard of the pumice routine but that's the extent of my knowledge.

As for the method I used, it's simply wet sanding the wood with wet/dry paper and using the Tru Oil as the lubricant. I used P800 & P1000.
As I mentioned earlier, it was bit of trial and error to find the right "wetness" but I got there in the end.


Teledan
Contributing Member
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Australia/Canberra

Oct 22nd, 2017 08:07 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Looks great Mick.

I'm about to start a Tru-Oil finish on that Tele bass neck. Had it with my setup guy up until yesterday getting the frets seen to, masked it all up last night then realised I had to order the Tru-Oil online (none at Bunnings :-) ).

Something to do next weekend I guess.

(This message was last edited by Teledan at 10:09 PM, Oct 22nd, 2017)

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
****

Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 22nd, 2017 10:16 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

"...then realised I had to order the Tru-Oil online (none at Bunnings :-) )."

Yeah, the only supplier for Tru Oil in AUS that I've found is Pitbull Guitars in WA. They've been really good with their shipping time (at least getting out. Australia Post on the other hand...)

Who's your "set-up guy"? I used to live in Canberra.
Just curious...

(This message was last edited by Mick Reid at 12:17 AM, Oct 23rd, 2017)

Previous 20 Messages  

FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / My latest Tru Oil project




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