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FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Grain filling & Tru Oil question

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
****

Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Sep 28th, 2017 10:41 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I'm currently doing a mahogany neck with Tru Oil and have been grain filling using the "slurry" method.

My main question is, is there a tolerance to how much the grain needs to be "filled"?

Do I need to keep repeating until the timber is perfectly "flat", or is there a bit of forgiveness that will allow the subsequent/multiple coats of oil to level out?

I've done two sessions of wet sanding with TO and P400 (wet/dry) and about to do a third. It just seems to be a slower process (the filling) than I anticipated.

I'm starting to get a handle the balance of how "wet" to have the surface. Too much oil = too slippery, not enough abrasion. Not enough oil = too sticky, not enough slurry.

I am, a work in progress...

(This message was last edited by Mick Reid at 03:14 AM, Sep 29th, 2017)

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
**********
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New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Sep 30th, 2017 08:52 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

It just depends on the end result that you desire. You can stop at 3 application cycles if you want and have the grain semi open for a more raw look which can be the look you want or you can keep going on forever until you get a mirror finish.

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
****

Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 1st, 2017 12:25 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Ok, worked it out on my own and got it to fill in nicely.

The front of the headstock had the deepest grain of the whole neck and took a total of 5 wet sanding sessions with oil, but I got there in the end.

I only have a couple of coats on there since the last grain filling, but it's starting to gloss up now and should come up with a nice mirror finish when I'm done.

Plan is to get 21 coats total (3/day), cure then polish. That's the process I did on my alder strat body and was very happy with that result.

I have 9 coats on the rest of the neck & headstock so, nearly half-way...


ejm

usa

Oct 1st, 2017 11:29 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

OK, I'm going to be the Mr. Stupid here today and ask a real elementary question by going back to the beginning: Do you need to oil mahogany at all?

I'm obviously not a Master Voodvorker. But the reason that I ask is that I read one time that there are certain typed of wood (rosewood) that have their own oils, negating the need for such.


Te 52

Laws of Physics

strictly enforced
Oct 1st, 2017 02:27 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Don't want to offer 20/20 hindsight, but: On your next project, you might want to use a paste wood grain filler prior to finishing rather than the time-consuming slurry-sanding method.

You glop the stuff on, let it dry thoroughly, then sand. Grain-fills in one, or at most two, operations. I usually use Bartley's brand. Black filler looks particularly good on mahogany. I color my own with universal tint.

(This message was last edited by Te 52 at 04:28 PM, Oct 1st, 2017)

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
****

Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 1st, 2017 05:12 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

"Do you need to oil mahogany at all?"

I am not timber expert or master woodworker either, but I believe that not all "mahogany" is created equal. Some species have a tighter grain than others.
This particular species (I believe an Asian variant) has quite a porous grain and, being a neck, I couldn't imagine it working without *some* kind of finish on it.

"...use a paste wood grain filler prior to finishing rather than the time-consuming slurry-sanding method."

I know that was option, but in the interest of expanding my knowledge and experience, I wanted to try the slurry method which I've heard about in a number of discussions.

I believe if I were to do it on another project, the process would be less time consuming. The final two wet sandings is where I got the "wet" mixture down to where I was getting the right consistency and filling action. (see my OP above)

In my defence, I think because I was working on such a small area (mainly front/back of headstock) it was less obvious to see the progression of the work. Or that could just be an excuse ;^)


Leftee
Contributing Member
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VA

One foot on the brake, one on the GAS
Oct 1st, 2017 05:28 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I'll just sit over here and wait for pictures.

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
****

Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 1st, 2017 07:05 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

"I'll just sit over here and wait for pictures."

As a faithful FDP Member, I will fulfil my Rule #37 obligations.
However it will be at least 10 more days before it's finished. (3 more days of coats, 7 days cure before polish and assembly)

Leftee
Contributing Member
*******

VA

One foot on the brake, one on the GAS
Oct 2nd, 2017 06:43 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I can wait.

Like I have a choice. ;-)

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
**********
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New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Oct 2nd, 2017 07:32 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Tap tap tap ...
... I hate doing finishes

M Tracy
Contributing Member
*******

Lafayette IN

Oct 2nd, 2017 10:04 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I don't mind finishing. I hate prep work, mostly grain filling. That's why I like bondo and solid colors.

FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Grain filling & Tru Oil question




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