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FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Is a bridge doctor an good solution?


LA , Calif

I try my best
Apr 23rd, 2017 12:34 PM   Edit   Profile  

I ask because this Seagull grand for some reason after checking things over resting a straight edge on the finger board it hits about 1/16" below the bridge and the sound hole sinks in front of the bridge and there is a peak in the center of the top just behind the bridge.

It was not like this a year ago and humidifying it helps a bit yet with the straight edge hitting below the bridge tells me the top has raised up at least 1/16" . It's possible I missed something more than a year ago because the action is pretty much the same as it has been for a while. In know in 2009 I needed to raise the action a bit then began adding more humidity yet the action hasn't gotten higher since then.

From all I've read and watched it's string pull and signs of a dry guitar. I doubt the BD will help with the drop in the sound hole or the board fall off.

I'm not sure what to do.

Contributing Member

The spotlight

looks like a prison break
Apr 23rd, 2017 12:40 PM   Edit   Profile  

The BD will help with a bridge that is torquing the the top (bellying behind the bridge and sinking between the bridge and sound hole).

Fall-away under the fingerboard extension is something that is usually due to dry wood (usually).

It's worth a try. They are not expensive and easy to install.


LA , Calif

I try my best
Apr 23rd, 2017 04:44 PM   Edit   Profile  

I checked it again today and there is a bit of bulge behind the bridge yet not drastic and in front to the sound hole is maybe .010" seems equal across the top on both sides front and back of the bridge.

Placing a straight edge on the bridge I see no sign that the bridge is tilted down at the neck end.

Even after a few days of a sponge and dampit in the body the action has not gotten higher it did raise a bit on the treble side so both the low e and high e are 1/8" low and 7/32 high e. I don't want it to. I'd like to lower it about 1/32" and think I can take 1/16 off the saddle and still have a decent break angle.

Wouldn't the BD raise the saddle even more pulling up at the front of the saddle down at the rear?

Contributing Member

New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Apr 24th, 2017 01:08 PM   Edit   Profile  

The BD is good as Peegoo describes. It isn't the answer to all high action issues but it sounds as though it will address the forward tilting of your bridge. Whether or not that will improve the relationship between the projection of your neck to the bridge is an unknown. With what you've posted, I think the BD is a good idea because it will keep your top from getting more distorted. Call Seagull and see what they say. Let us know what they say too.


LA , Calif

I try my best
Apr 24th, 2017 05:31 PM   Edit   Profile  

Thing is seagull does not have a phone number just email. Also the bridge is not tilted forward it's level. This is why I feel installing a BD since it pushes the rear bulge down and at the same time the end under the saddle pushes up which will in affect raise the action.

I asked seagull years ago if the top on mine should have a crown and was told back in 2004 that's the way they were built and mine since new has always had a crown on the lower bout. The newer models on their shop tour show the radius on the upper bout and that 7 ply brace to keep the top from caving in at the finger board extension and they show the rest of the top flat also they changed the bridge shape and saddle.

My fear is humidifying the inside does cause the top to raise up at the bridge and raise the action . Also the reason low humidity may have caused the finger board extension to develop the fall away.

So far even with humidity added the bridge has not raised up or the action except on the high E by a bit more than 1/64". It was 3/32 and 4/32" High e and low E .

Before I changed the strings I checked the tuning and instead on my normal 1 step low it was far more than this and I had no neck relief yet the high area behind the bridge stayed the same . I didn't check how far below 1 step down it was yet my tuner would not read it so I'd guess the low E was 5 to 6 steps below concert pitch. I brought it back with new strings to 1 step below and the so called bulge didn't change one bit yet the neck relief was back to .010". The bridge has no sign of pulling off at all I checked it a number of times.

This is why I'm stuck. Do I dare to keep going with adding moisture because of the fall away or stop and allow the top dry a bit and lower the bridge. All this change and the top has not cracked or has the bridge come loose. In 2009 when I discovered the saddle was loose I got a new one and raised the action to what seagull said the specs were 7/32" bass 5/32" treble . I added a rose wood shim super glued to the back side of the saddle and read .010" gap no shim so I sanded the rose wood to be a snug fit and it still is.

In a way I'm afraid if I add the BD it might cause the bridge to pull from the top even with slight pressure since on a seagull grand the bridge is not that far from the lower bout edges.

Does any of this make sense?


LA , Calif

I try my best
Apr 24th, 2017 08:47 PM   Edit   Profile  

There seems to be a difference in older seagull neck joints and the newer ones. The newer ones are an integrated set neck , no idea what the older ones were called.

I was thinking it may be possible for a bolt on neck as these have could have slightly loose bolts with no noise. I thought about this wondering say one or both are a bit loose . Common sense tells me this would not cause a fall away unless the cross brace near the end of the board, inside the top was weaker than the finger board extension and if is was not weaker then you would have a ski slope up instead of fall away.

I found this drawing of the newer seagull neck joint and then an actual photo of what mine might have.

seagull late neck joint


LA , Calif

I try my best
Apr 24th, 2017 08:57 PM   Edit   Profile  

This is the photo of what mine most likely has. You can't tell looking inside. It looks like instead of the top route and the epoxy they now use this just has a hole through the same size block under the top for the truss rod to pass through. The tops are both glued to the top of this block yet the old neck joint it's just the finger board and no extra neck setting on the top and inner block. My point is it seems if my neck bolts were the issue I would not have a fall off and I would think the truss rod adjust hex end would be against the bottom of the hole in that heavy cross brace. The photo is the top second one to right if you wait it seem's to come up on it's own.

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(This message was last edited by catnineblue at 11:01 PM, Apr 24th, 2017)

FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Is a bridge doctor an good solution?

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