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FDP Forum / Fender Guitars: Stratocasters / First Strat, finally

Previous 20 Messages  
pombrio
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USA

Sep 1st, 2016 10:27 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

HD, you sure you didn't roll some skinny French guy on a moped in the GC parking lot and take his axe?

Viera
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Santee CA

Poser extraordinaire
Sep 1st, 2016 10:33 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Strings with ball ends work fine with Strats.

LOL @ pombrio.


Hammond101
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So. Cal. USA

Sep 1st, 2016 11:10 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Thanks HD. I use Ernie Ball hybrid 9s on most of my Strats. Most come shipped with a standard 9 set. The hybrid set uses the low E, A and D string from the 10 set. I like the heavier bottom.

I do have a couple of Strats set up with the full 10 sets that I use for surf music. Either should work well for you. You may find you might have to adjust the trem tension a bit when changing string guage if the guitar is set up to float the bridge. I like about a .020-.025" rise in the back of the bridge over the body. It give me just the right amount of rise in pitch if I pull back on the wang bar and good shimmer effects. Having it any higher seems to make the bridge too sensitive when palm muting.

HeavyDuty
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Northeast IL

Not very bright but does lack ambition
Sep 1st, 2016 11:27 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Fun stuff to learn - thanks, everyone!

Lol at pombrio.

HeavyDuty
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Northeast IL

Not very bright but does lack ambition
Sep 1st, 2016 11:28 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Oh, forgot to ask...

The threaded trem bar is a PITA. Can I convert it to snap in, and do I want to?

Pinetree
Moderator Emeritus
(with many stars)

NW Pennsylvania

Sep 1st, 2016 11:31 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

It'd be more hassle than it's worth.


Just play the dang thing.




HeavyDuty
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Northeast IL

Not very bright but does lack ambition
Sep 1st, 2016 11:45 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

The conversion would be? I noticed Calliham makes bars with shortened threads so you can mount it with a single turn, even that would be an improvement over the full threading and would be cheap.

pombrio
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USA

Sep 1st, 2016 12:02 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I believe Callaham's bars will only work with his replacement trem blocks. Is that correct?

HeavyDuty
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Northeast IL

Not very bright but does lack ambition
Sep 1st, 2016 12:03 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

He implies they will work with the factory block, but that's a good question I should ask first.

Edit - crap, you're right. I'll live with it as-is.

(This message was last edited by HeavyDuty at 02:05 PM, Sep 1st, 2016)

Viera
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Santee CA

Poser extraordinaire
Sep 1st, 2016 01:32 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I prefer the Amer Deluxe pop in trem arm and the feel of the arm over the Amer Standards/Series. That said you might try the following:

Wrap the trem bar threads with a layer or 2 of plumbers tape. It helps keep the bar from flapping around.

You can bend the arm a little so that it lies closer to the guitar body/strings. For me this makes it easier to use the trem while simultaneously playing notes.

I almost never remove the trem bar on my Amer Series Strat. When in the case I position the bar so that the end points to the case corner...

Like this

Mick Reid
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Sep 1st, 2016 04:03 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Hammond,
As a general rule, I loathe black guitars, but I really like your DG look. Got me thinking now...

JAFO
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Hemet, SoCal

Let's do the Funky Alphonzo
Sep 1st, 2016 04:03 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Also, you can buy those springs that go in the trem arm cavity. You twist the arm in until you get the tension you want.

Strat trem arm tension springs

HeavyDuty
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Northeast IL

Not very bright but does lack ambition
Sep 1st, 2016 04:15 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Viera, thanks for the pic! I'll see if that works for me.

JAFO, mine has that spring - it looks like it and the trem arm was never out of the package let alone installed. It's not a looseness issue, it's a putting in in the case issue. I'm going to see if Viera's technique works with my case, mine is a later molded Fender / SKB one.

Viera
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Santee CA

Poser extraordinaire
Sep 1st, 2016 04:19 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

No sweat HD.

Another thing about the spring:
I've heard (Peegoo I believe) that applying a little Vaseline on the spring will help keep it from popping out when the trem arm is removed.

HeavyDuty
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Northeast IL

Not very bright but does lack ambition
Sep 1st, 2016 05:51 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Oooh, kinky - must have been Peegoo!

;-)

HeavyDuty
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Northeast IL

Not very bright but does lack ambition
Sep 1st, 2016 08:49 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Viera, no go - best I can tell the molded case fits too tightly to the top to allow leaving the bar on.

Viera
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Santee CA

Poser extraordinaire
Sep 1st, 2016 09:26 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Darn, but no big deal. As long as you're careful about the spring not falling out you should be fine.

HeavyDuty
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Northeast IL

Not very bright but does lack ambition
Sep 8th, 2016 12:24 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I have an appointment for a full setup from a local tech that has a hugely fantastic reputation, enough so that he's booked out for weeks. That's fine, because he's five minutes away and I'm in no hurry. ;-)

In the meantime, what is a checklist of things for me to check to resolve an sitar-like open string buzz at the bridge on the E and A strings? It doesn't appear to be action related, I'm guessing it's somewhere in the saddles or trem. I'm not going to waste a lot of time on this, but if a quick tweak will quiet it down I'd be happy.

Martin G
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Canada

Sep 8th, 2016 02:15 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Check if one of the saddle springs are rattling.

Hammond101
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So. Cal. USA

Sep 8th, 2016 02:42 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

If this only happens with the string played open the problem is almost always at the nut.

The string slot is not angled toward the headstock and making a clean break as it exits toward the fingerboard.

Could be the set screws on the saddles are not both touching the bridge plate as well. Saddle springs in the E & A are usually pretty compressed. If it was high E I'd say yeah, maybe.

Factory setups are almost always in need of adjustment.

To get a Fender pop-in wang bar you would need to upgrade to the American Deluxe bridge assy. This may not even be a current item anymore. I do as the others and leave my threaded bars in the bridge except for pop-ins.

Previous 20 Messages  

FDP Forum / Fender Guitars: Stratocasters / First Strat, finally




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