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FDP Forum / The Squier Forum / Squier VM PV frets

LeonB
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North of Philly

Solid state = solid sound+light weight
Aug 29th, 2014 03:26 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Bought one of these earlier this year. Now it's time to rip the frets out. ( I know defeats the Precision part of the name)

So here's the silly question: Are the frets glued in, or may I skip the heating them with a soldering gun bit? I don't want to burn the maple neck.

Peegoo
Contributing Member
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I walk

between the raindrops
Aug 30th, 2014 06:26 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Howdy Leon

They're pressed in from the top. Best to use fret nippers at pry them out. You also have lacquer (poly) sprayed over the fretboard, so you'll have to score the clear coat along the sides of each fret to break the finish and make removal easier.

You can use a soldering stick to warm up the frets, but go slowly because it is super easy to overheat the fret wire and scorch the maple.

LeonB
Contributing Member
******

North of Philly

Solid state = solid sound+light weight
Sep 1st, 2014 04:05 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Hey Peegoo,

I toasted the maple on two frets, one not real bad. I had made a fret pulling nipper for my last two de-fret jobs and believe it or not, the neck is lacquered before they fretted it. There are dents in the poly from the setting pressure.

I also used the cute little tools from Stew Mac that slide under the fret to help protect the board, and reduce chipping.

I'm going to file the nut slots lower to the thickness of one of SM's fret dressing shields, and shim the neck up a bit because there are a couple of the bridge saddles that are down on the plate.

Peegoo
Contributing Member
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I walk

between the raindrops
Sep 1st, 2014 09:09 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

If you have dimples from the fret press...

Have you considered filling the slots with black epoxy (or dark wood veneer), sanding smooth, and shooting clear polyu on it? It's dead simple to do.

LeonB
Contributing Member
******

North of Philly

Solid state = solid sound+light weight
Sep 3rd, 2014 01:39 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Peegoo,

I use .020 binding, black in this case. Going to check the sanding block I made for the second Peavey, if it matches, we're good, if it doesn't we make a new one.

LeonB
Contributing Member
******

North of Philly

Solid state = solid sound+light weight
Sep 16th, 2014 02:08 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I checked the Fender site and it says the fingerboard radius is 9.5" a Fender favorite, so I'll consider an aluminum block from StewMac. Would seem to be a useful tool purchase.

FDP Forum / The Squier Forum / Squier VM PV frets




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